Domaine Damien Laureau Savennières Les Genêts 2004
Working out of a small shed with a very small team, Damien Laureau is not exactly what one would call a “typical” Savennières winemaker. Fruit extracts and other non-synthetic treatments are used on the vines in place of harsh chemicals. The vineyards are alive, with wildlife and indigenous plants sharing the space with Damien’s healthy vines of Chenin Blanc. This is pure Chenin Blanc from some of the highest vines in the appellation. Aged for 18 months in a combination of tank (80%) and barrel (20%). Lively, mineral-filled, and delicious Savennieres that shows off its schisty and volcanic rock terroir. Damien’s wine is lively and refined with remarkable delicacy for a ripe Savennieres. It finishes juicy, but with bitter notes of peach pit and melon rind, along with salt and white pepper. Damien is undoubtedly one of the future stars of this Loire Valley region. Pair this with shellfish or a cheese board (the softer the cheese the better).
Wine Enthusiast
Damien Laureau is a new name in Savennières, taking over in 1999 from his uncle. As with all Savennières, this is dry, but the wood aging rounds out the fruit to give a superrich wine. Flavors of mango and pear jam go with the smooth vanilla of the wood. It feels sweet, but tastes dry. The acidity keeps the alcohol at bay.
Score: 90.
—Roger Voss,
October
01,
2007.
Wine Spectator
Plump, with brioche, ginger, apple and cinnamon notes, followed by a round, lengthy finish. Drink now through 2008. 2,000 cases made.
Score: 88.
—James Molesworth,
May
31,
2007.
Wine Advocate
Damien Laureau was a new talent to me, and his 2004 Savennieres Les Genets – from some of the highest vineyards in that appellation on schist and a rare black metamorphic rock called phanite – sets the elegant tone for the entire collection I tasted. Acacia and peach pit aromas suggest Viognier, and in the mouth, too, this is subtly creamy, leesy and glycerin-rich, but there the comparison ends. This wine is lively and refined with remarkable delicacy for a ripe Savennieres. It finishes juicy, but with bitter notes of peach pit and melon rind, along with salt and white pepper.
Score: 88.
—David Schildknecht,
August
2007.
All sizes are 750mL unless otherwise noted.
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