The Maddening Reality of 2011 Burgundy
by Peter J Troilo
So here it is - the last of the 2011 vintage. As everyone preps their 2012 offerings and starts panicking about wine arrivals, Amy and I decided to take one more look at the 2011 vintage. We found some truly special wines available in the marketplace. They represent the crème de la crème of the vintage and carry the prices to boot. As wine writer Stephen Tanzer puts it, “…the 2011s may provide more pleasure over the next ten years, even if the better examples will go on for two decades or more. The 2010s are for serious collectors; the 2011s are for everyone with a fat wallet.” The prices below are not typos. It is the sad reality Burgundy lovers face. Unfortunately, it is our own behavior which has caused these market prices. In the hay days of 2005, 2006 and 2007 we allowed Burgundy to excessively raise prices. Sadly, I don’t think it can ever be repaired. The maddening reality is that the wines will sell out.
The more red Burgundy I taste from the 2011 vintage the more I am impressed with the overall freshness and approachability of these wines. In their youth they are very pretty wines with deep expressions of fruit and excellent harmony. Perhaps the greatest feature of the 2011 wines are their ability to supply immediate gratification. These are wines built for short – term cellaring. There’s no need to put these in the cellar for decades. These wines will supply luxurious enjoyment over the next 8 years.
Robert Chevillon Nuit Saint George Vaucrains- 94 IWC- Subtle aromas of dark raspberry, musky underbrush and meat. Supple and sweet if not quite as delineated as the Les Saint-Georges. But boasts a lovely fine-grained texture to the dark raspberry and spice flavors. More minerally than chocolatey on the very long finish.
$130 the bottle
Comtes Georges du Vogue Bonnes Mares- 94 IWC- Deep, multifaceted aromas of dark cherry, blueberry, menthol, violet, brown spices, licorice and cardamom. Plush, sweet and spicy, with a distinctly wild quality to the blueberry and huckleberry flavors accented by peppery herbs. Youthfully imploded Bonnes-Mares, with a tight, powerful finish that calls for patience. Superb.
$730 the bottle
Comtes Georges du Vogue Musigny – 95+ IWC- An elixir of dark berries on the nose, with complicating notes of crushed stone, menthol and flowers. Thick but weightless and youthfully imploded, with an element of spicy acidity giving outstanding cut and primary character to the blackberry and blueberry fruit flavors. Finishes dense and strong, with powerful tannic support and late hints of espresso and bitter chocolate. Fully ripe in the context of the vintage, and built for an extended evolution in bottle.
$840 the bottle
To place an order for any of these wines please contact Peter or Amy directly at (203) 656 - 9463.
Bouchard Chambertin Clos de Beze- 94+ IWC- Slightly reduced aromas of raspberry, smoked meat and dried flowers. Tougher and more reserved today than the Bonnes-Mares but shows an exhilarating light touch to its youthfully medicinal flavors of strawberry, raspberry, crushed stone, peony, rose petal and spices. Finishes dry and classic, with firm tannins and terrific rising length. Delivers more urgent fruits and minerals than the Bonnes-Mares but this beauty really calls for seven or eight years of cellaring.
$330 the bottle